The feel of the place varies block-to-block, seemingly unable to decide if it is a third world capital or a first-world city. This is clearly due to a history littered with colonization, devastating invasion, and modern tourism.
On one hand, there are crowded markets acting as the local grocery store, where everyone is too busy selling and shopping to make way for a tourist (which I didn't mind.) And there are the old buildings, in desperate need of at least a paint job, if not a wrecking ball. But I wouldn't have it any other way. You see, these are the things that make this city unique, interesting, lively, and enchanting.
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But then you walk to the waterfront and there are European eateries lining the river with plenty of outdoor seating, worthy western food, and colonial ambience. I think these are the things that make this city comfortable, relaxing, inviting, and for a large number of expats, livable.
On a side note, I found the building used as the guesthouse in the movie City of Ghosts. It is off limits, but this cool building should still be recognizable to those that have seen the film. I wandered across the street to where the film's restaurant is purported to be. I was disappointed to find that the inside looks like a cheap diner. It's a shame that it doesn't have the same ambience as it did in the film.
Your homework assignment: Rent (if you can find it) City of Ghosts. It is shot entirely in Cambodia and really gives you a feel for the sites. It's also just a good movie.
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